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The cliff faces south and many of the routes are steep and normally stay dry. These things make it a great winter crag, when the sun hits it on a cold winter day you would think it was still autumn. It should go without saying that it gets hot in the summer so plan accordingly.
There are some killer routes here including one of my favorite routes at Rumney, Stoned Temple Pilot (5.12a), this route and a few others at the crag feel a bit like climbs you would find at the Red River Gorge thanks to a band of honeycombed rock and the super overhanging nature of the climbing. Other faves include, The Premium (5.12c/d), Horned Behavior (5.12b), and Machine Head (5.11c/d). The mantel finish on Machine Head is worth the hike all on its own.
All “super classics” aside there are great sport climbs here from 5.10a to 5.12c/d. Even a few trad lines like Prudential Crack (5.8+), Wiggler Wants It (5.12a R) and the newer addition Losing Your Life and Living Through It 5.12c. The grades at Prudential tend to be solid “honest” grades, in other words you will have to earn what you send at any grade. So be prepared to work!
So next time you want to spice it up a bit, take a walk and check out this beautiful piece of schist. The routes are like nothing you’ve climbed at Rumney before and afterwards you will find yourself spraying to your friends about the sick routes you did without the noise and distraction of the everyday cliffs.
Starting at Waimea head down a trail at the far left (west) end of the cliff. Follow this down hill and around Triple Corners (there is a trail that links Blackjack boulders and Triple Corners that is more direct. You may want to take this instead of starting at Waimea.)Continue around Triple Corners over some boulders and start heading up hill again, steep at times. At one point you’ll accend a short but steep gully with a fixed rope in it. Up the hill you get to a large and awesome crag called The Hinterlands. Skirt the crag to the left and continue along the trail. You’ll see a good sized cliff as you hike under a large gully. This is Yellowknife Buttress (you’ll want to stop and climb every route on this georgous cliff but press on you are almost there. As you pass Yellowknife a little more scrambling will lead to The Prudential.
The cliff’s right side is steep, this is the part that stays dry. The left side is split by a large ledge with a few trees on it. There are a few nice 5.10s on the left end of the ledge. Under the ledge there are a few climbs and direct sarts to the upper routes.
The other approch is to continue through the Black Jacks to its western edge and pick up a trail marked in parts with fallen small trees and sticks. This trail wanders through a less-steep but perhaps longer trail to the Northwest Territories crag. Hike up hill to the gully and turn right. The cliff on the right of the gully is the Prudential.
You may want to add the third approach from the pit parking lot. Faster and more direct.